With the mid-2000s came a hairstyle trend loved and derided in equal measures: the man bun. Amongst the intra-cultural bickering, it’s easy to overlook the fact that Western society in the early 21st century did not invent the man bun. In contrast, one must look to some pre-modern as well as non-Christian societies in which men sported hair buns. In these contexts, different versions of man buns take on cultural and religious significance.
Sikh Men: Long Hair and Devotion to God
Among the central tenets of Sikhism are “the five Ks,” or outward manifestations of an adherent’s devotion to the faith. Sikh Dharma International described “kesh,” the first principle that calls for Sikhs to grow their hair long and uncut, in a 2015 article on its website. Simply put, kesh teaches that the hair on one’s head is sacred, possessing natural strength and vitality.
While kesh is an ungendered belief, Sikh men and women practice it in different ways. Traditionally, Sikh men have worn their long hair in a topknot called a “joora.” This style, consisting of long hair wound into a bun, is held in place by a special type of comb known as a “kanga.” Depending on the age of the male and the occasion, he may wear a turban or a smaller wrapped head covering known as a “patka.” Some Sikh men have now abandoned these customary head coverings and have opted for modern styles, with some cutting their hair much shorter and a few choosing to wear long uncovered hair in Western-style man buns.
Sumo, Shintoism and the Chonmage
Long before Jared Leto was lauded as a fashion trendsetter with his man bun, sumo wrestlers in pre-modern Japan wore elaborately constructed topknots. Known as “chonmage,” the style was incorporated into the sport by Shinto ritualists in the 1700s. When writer Daniel Schwartz wrote about this fascinating piece of history in a 2016 Meridian article, he revealed that these buns are shaped to resemble ginkgo leaves, long revered as symbols of longevity. Along with purification rites, rules governing sportsmanship and referees dressed in elaborate Shinto priestly garb, the sumo wrestler’s hairstyles were part of a spiritualistic makeover of the sport, intended to infuse a higher purpose and help bolster Japanese cultural identity.
The Tsiiyéél in Navajo Culture
In traditional Navajo culture, both men and women have worn long hair in a style known as “tsiiyéél.” It is fashioned and secured near the nape of the neck, usually with white yarn made from sheep’s wool. Their creation story, the Dine’ Bahane, tells how the first humans came into existence, noting that First Man gathered his hair and tied it at the nape of his neck. The legend ascribes his behavior to a need to bring thoughts and plans into focus. Thus, the tsiiyéél can be said to represent a commitment to balance, self-control and focus.
So What’s the Big Deal About Man Buns?
Often included in stereotypical portrayals of latte-drinking, neighborhood-gentrifying hipsters, man buns have been praised in Western nations as a fashion option that breaks from traditional male gender performance. Some writers, such as Britney Summit Gil at the University of Minnesota’s The Society Pages project, suspect that criticism of the coif may be rooted in the misogynistic idea that it is “too feminine” for men to wear.
Considering these points means also acknowledging that gender norms, including those that address hair length, are very much rooted in individual cultures. For example, long hair on men was common in Renaissance-era aristocratic Europe, ancient Greece and some pre-colonial African nations. As proven by Sikh devotees, sumo wrestlers and Navajo men, the equation of long hair and buns with femininity is not universal.